Anabel Kingsley, a trichologist and daughter of the late Philip Kingsley founder, operates from clinics in New York and London. Her expertise cuts through the noise of viral hair trends and internet remedies that promise results but rarely deliver. Over the course of a consultation, Kingsley dismantled several deeply rooted misconceptions about scalp and hair health that most people have absorbed from social media or years of habit.
The most surprising revelation: dandruff cannot be cured. It simply comes and goes, though it's entirely manageable. The confusion stems from a basic misunderstanding of how the scalp works. Kingsley explained that the scalp is skin, just like the skin on your forehead. Dead skin cells accumulate naturally, and without regular cleansing and exfoliation through shampooing, those cells get trapped at the root and throughout the hair shaft.
The solution is straightforward but requires consistency. Kingsley recommends using an anti-dandruff shampoo every other wash, maintaining it in your bathroom for whenever flakes resurface. She also noted that not all flakes look the same. Yellow, sticky flakes often indicate seborrheic dermatitis, an inflammatory skin condition caused by overgrowth of a yeast called malassezia. Everyone has this yeast, but it thrives in oily environments. Shampooing more frequently deprives the yeast of its food source, which is why washing your hair often is essential rather than harmful.
One of the most damaging trends circulating on TikTok is the concept of "hair training," which involves extending the time between washes to supposedly teach your scalp to produce less oil. Kingsley was direct: you cannot train your hair or scalp. The logic fails immediately when applied to any other part of your body. If you stopped washing your face for weeks, you wouldn't end up with balanced skin. Your scalp would react the same way. Regular washing, as often as your lifestyle allows, is beneficial rather than harmful.
When shampooing, Kingsley advises doing it twice. The first pass dislodges dirt, oil, and product buildup. The second ensures everything is lifted away. Spend at least a minute massaging the lather into your scalp, not your lengths. The extended massage time aids in exfoliation and dramatically improves the longevity of your style afterward.
The fear that frequent washing dries out your scalp is unfounded. The scalp contains hundreds of thousands of glands housed inside hair follicles, making it an inherently oily environment. Unless you're shampooing two or three times daily, it's nearly impossible to over-dry your scalp through washing alone.
Glycolic acid has gained traction as a pre-shampoo scalp treatment, but Kingsley identifies salicylic acid as superior for most people. Both are chemical exfoliants, but salicylic acid is gentler on sensitive skin and penetrates deeper into the scalp, breaking down accumulation of dead cells, oil, and styling products. She recommends using a salicylic acid exfoliator once weekly on areas prone to dandruff, then applying a conditioning treatment to your ends before shampooing.
Viral hair growth hacks collapse under scrutiny. Scalp massagers may improve blood flow, but most people don't massage long enough to see any real benefit. Your fingers work just as effectively without the risk of abrading your scalp or tangling hair. Rosemary oil for hair growth, despite its trendy appeal, lacks solid clinical evidence. One study compared rosemary oil to 2 percent minoxidil, but over-the-counter minoxidil products contain 5 percent, a much higher strength. Any evidence supporting rosemary oil's effectiveness tends to be anecdotal rather than scientific.
Heat styling gets demonized, but Kingsley offered refreshing perspective. Hair exists to be enjoyed and styled. While extreme heat isn't ideal, using heated tools with proper precautions is realistic and manageable. A weekly pre-shampoo conditioning treatment, combined with heat protectant spray, maintains hair integrity and prevents breakage. Pay special attention to the front layers, which typically receive the most heat exposure. Additionally, apply sunscreen to exposed scalp areas, particularly your hairline, since UV damage darkens the skin there over time.
Hair shedding worries many people unnecessarily. The American Academy of Dermatology reports that losing 50 to 100 hairs daily is normal, and for some people, it's slightly higher. Seasonal shedding typically peaks in September and October. If you stretch time between washes beyond four or five days, you'll naturally accumulate dislodged hair follicles, making shedding appear worse than it actually is. Using gentle hair accessories like claw clips helps protect hair integrity.
When should you actually worry? Telogen effluvium, excessive hair shedding caused by stress or other factors, is unmistakable. You might lose around 300 hairs daily, and the shedding persists for an extended period. If you suspect this is happening, consult a qualified trichologist for proper testing and diagnosis.
Author Jessica Williams: "The beauty industry thrives on selling us fixes for problems that either don't exist or have simple solutions we're already supposed to know, and Kingsley cuts right through that nonsense."
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